Sunday, February 19, 2012

Proenza Schouler Fall - Winter 2012/2013

Asian Domination. Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez made those two words successfully engraved in their spectator's heart and buzzed on my ears. This season, the brilliant duo took their astonishment of Japan culture into their collection. Japanese floral motifs they applied in this collection reminds me of "Memoir of Geisha", where the Zhang Zi Yi wore the magnificent tapestry kimono with nature and floral motifs on it. Rich with colors, details and miraculous craftsmanship. Something that you can't compare to anything else. But before you could embrace the 'Geisha' notion, the duo served our hunger with their Asian military imagination first. The strong, tough and heroic mood definitely seen on them. Once again, Lazaro and Hernandez put their the best to made their amazing surreal imagination into reality.

The show was opened by a white, clean and tough look. Boxy jacket with the sharp and asymmetric cut worn over short dress and paired with leather boot. An optimistic look for a show opening. It showed that well-constructed pieces were definitely their forte. The purity and innocence from the white meet the strong and optimism from the shape was a balance. Then came the ivory hues oversized top with zipper lining one-sided on the front to the strengthen the 'boxiness' concept. After the neutral-bright parade, the show altered to darker palette. The red wine oversized top paired with the warrior-woven leather skirt with a slight of gold touch caught my attention. The woven leather skirt was meticulously fabricated and actually we were still in the beginning of another awakening pieces. 


McCollough and Hernandez obviously tried to experiment with big silhouette. Bigger shoulder, bigger bust, bigger waistline and of course they also put a big attention to the details. Big silhouette might not everybody's cup of tea, but they gave us a reason to take some time to get the picture of the notions correctly. And yes, I was struck by almost the entire collection. The woven leather bomber jacket in blue-black with white shearling collar and quilted leather skirt that took my memory back to the late 90's when there was a Chinese colossal TV series named The Legend of Condor Heroes. It's a heroic-drama series during a war. Where the warriors wore similar skirt as the runway models (minus silver disc embellishment) were my headliner for the military fragment.

The masculine military nuance slowly evolved into more delicate feeling when Sigrid Agren walked down the runway wearing long-sleeved dress with Japanese floral details all over the dress. It was an intriguing detail, especially it came with iridescent golden touch and asymmetric hemline. The dress was paired with lace-up peep-toe woven leather boots with chunky heels that looked so ready to stump the New York streets. The entire pieces on the models triumphantly made the entire look infinitely modern.


 Images via

The Proenza Boys never disappoint me and what I love about the duo this season was the baseball jacket with embroidered peacock detail decorated in the front. It was evidence that Lazaro and McCollough willing to take a risk to incorporate the traditional heritage element with modern structure and made it more contemporary and but still wearable. The duo obviously didn't want to leave the crowd plainly bewitched. Lazaro and McCollough wanted the crowd to be satisfied.

Mr. Vhallah


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